Rajasthan :: Home of the Rajputs

Posted by aaron on May 4, 2014

India is a huge country with so much diversity. So many religions with “over 8 million” gods, according to a friendly local. When he asked me how long I’ll be in India for, I said, “Almost 2 months… too short for India, right?”. He replied straight-faced, “Of course, why not. A lifetime is too short to see India.”

With so many places to see, where do you begin? Charmie is stationed in the Himalayas and although I love the mountains, there’s something about desert regions that I always seem to gravitate towards. I decided to spend the next month exploring Rajasthan, a desert region in Western India that is home to the Rajputs. Rajputs are a warrior clan within the Indian caste system that claims to originate from the sun, and by looking in their eyes you would almost believe it. Almost everyone I’ve talked to and photographed so far all seem to have this mysterious haze of bloodshot. I’m not sure if it’s from the constant dust storms or the prevalent opium culture. Whatever it is I’m intrigued. I feel so incredibly grateful to be here right now. Tomorrow I head off into the desert, spending the next 3 days exploring the land by camel! : )

Phnom Penh :: Corrupt City with a Dark History

Posted by aaron on February 23, 2014

There’s something about Cambodia that makes it stand way out among the other SE Asian countries we’ve visited so far. It’s something I’ll probably forever struggle with trying to put into words, but there’s a unique feeling I get here that I haven’t felt anywhere else. It’s a mixed feeling of nostalgia, mystery, enchantment, anger, sadness, sympathy… maybe it’s just my subconscious speaking of the country’s dark history, but even before I really learned about all that happened here, I knew this place was something special. It’s the kind of place that continuously triggers thoughts and evokes emotions.

During the Khmer Rouge era, people living in Cambodian cities were forced to evacuate their homes to become slaves in the countryside. The regime’s mission was to solely create a population that was made to work as laborers in one huge federation of collective farms. Anyone in opposition (this meant all intellectuals and educated people) must be eliminated, together with all non-communist aspects of traditional Cambodian society. So in 1975 the beautiful capital city of Phnom Pehn was completely deserted, leaving it to be the world’s largest ghost town. In the end nearly 3 million people or 1/3 of the country’s total population was killed.

In a strange way it almost seems as if time stopped here in the 1970s when all of this happened. Charmie and I visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a former high school in Central Phnom Penh that was converted into a torture prison in 1975. Nearly 20,000 people were tortured here before being hauled to a killing field about 14km away. On display at the museum were hundreds of documented “mugshots” of the innocent prisoners held there. The faces I saw on the walls looked exactly like the people I see on the streets of Phnom Penh today. They appear to wear the same outfits, have the same haircuts, use the same expressions…. it honestly feels like the majority of people have not changed one bit from that time. It makes it seem like the mass genocide took place only yesterday. It’s as if the Cambodian people just went back to their old homes after the reign was over and acted as if nothing happened.

I look for emotions in the eyes of people I pass on the streets. When I see anyone that looks over the age of 50, I try to imagine the type of life they’ve lived….the terrible sounds and scenes they’ve witnessed. I think about the people close to them that were lost. When I pass someone around my age I wonder what their childhood was like. How did their parents raise them with that darkness still lingering?

You see corruption everywhere you look and you know it’s not stopping anytime soon. Entire families sleep on the sidewalks while policemen drive brand new Range Rovers. The roads leading to the capital city are ridiculous…large portions aren’t even paved. The people of Cambodia are continuing to be dealt a shit hand, but I think now they’re simply content with finally having a sense of peace and quiet. Finally not having to lock their doors in fear of who will come knocking.

I know I’m not the only passing tourist that wonders what this place would look like if the war never took place. This place is wild. The people are beautiful. I can safely say Cambodia has been my favorite stop of the journey so far.

Quiapo, Philippines

Posted by charmie on September 12, 2013

Bunnies for sale, and I even saw baby chicks whose hair was died in colors of the rainbow for sale!

A smell you will have to get used to, but their quite good! Especially when dipped in vinegar.

My knock off Ray Bans from Quiapo!

A very busy busy market in manila, but lucky for us it’s just 2 train stops away from us. I’m quite a digger, so this was my paradise. An open market filled with everything from dried fish, to wholesale beads to knock off Louis Vuittons and Ray Bans! We came on the hunt for new lenses for our Canon. We heard Hidalgo street in Quiapo was known for their rock bottom prices. That some people even fly into the Philippines to score camera equipment on the cheap. It’s the Philippines, so if you’re used to spending U.S. dollars- everything is cheap here. Hidalgo was filled with new and used camera shops, but for the lens we were looking for, it still about the same as the prices we saw online. So in short, I only walked away with a pair of knock of Ray-bans. Don’t judge me, they were only 50P, about 1$!

What to expect:

Very busy market, especially on the weekends. Hang tight to your purse, or better yet don’t bring one at all. Try your best to blend in, and walk fast. I’ve heard too many “snatch” stories about Quiapo. Like most markets you can haggle for a lower price. I usually don’t when I feel it’s fair, it’s hard for them to make a living. A few pesos will mean more to them than it does to me saving a buck or two. You can take a jeepney (usually bet 8-10 pesos) just look for one with Quiapo painted on the side of their jeep. You can also take a bus or LRT and stop at Carriedo station. LRT will cost you about 12-15 pesos. Also, step inside the beautiful Quiapo Catholic church. Locals say Manny Pacquiao attends church here.

Banaue, Infugao Philippines

Posted by charmie on September 12, 2013

The bumpy ride on top of a jeepney on our way to Banaue from Batad.

The jeep , per usual was over-packed inside and on top. Bouncing through mountainside potholes, clinging on the the crates I was sitting on, the jeep ended up with a flat tire. Which sent us on a fut trek on foot through the village outside of Banaue.

The people of Infugao were quite skilled at their craft of weaving and woodcarving!

The houses built on mountainsides in Banaue

Lots of yummy street food!

Fresh dried tobacco!

The view from People’s Lodge Restaurant

The vegetable dishes from Greenview lodge restaurant were so fresh and full of flavor. Must stop in here if you can!

Banaue is the main city surrounded by smaller villages. Here you will find a few restaurants, a tourism center, and a strip with shops selling anything from produce, to handmade goods from the locals. Here you will find more of your western accommodations such as hotels with wifi, coffee shops, and even showers! For 20 pesos you can take a cold shower in the Greenview lodge, I think hot showers are a bit more.

How to get to Banaue from Manila:

We rode the Ohayami Transit which has many buses going from Manila to Banaue. Most leave at night since it’s a 10 hour bus ride. A good time since you experience less traffic, and by the time you wake up you’re there. Our fare was about 550P or around $10. The bus ride is freeeeezing, bring layers or a blanket. There’s no bathroom on the bus, but it takes pit stops at public restrooms along the way. Food and drinks are allowed on the bus. We brought sake which helped us sleep real well =)

Only downfall is you can’t book tickets online, you to visit one of their stations in person to book a ticket. We visited the one in the Sampaloc location. We found riding a bus was much quicker and easier than the LRT, and Jeepney.

The Village of Batad – Ifugao, Philippines

Posted by charmie on September 12, 2013

Once we arrived to Banaue we proceeded to Batad. We heard Batad took the cake for seeing the rice terraces and quite a trekkers paradise. When we arrived at Batad we were greeted by friendly locals asking us to buy soda and schedule massages. We passed on the massages and continued on to Ramon’s Homestay. He had about 4 natives huts (and working on a 5th one) with no running water and electricity. It was definitely more of the experience we were looking for! He showed us the hut he was born in and where his family of 5 lived. (surprising since I though it was just big enough for me and Aaron) The inside was cured with smoke from fires built inside the hut and it was adorned with skulls, including monkey skulls! Rice baskets were stored on the shelf for when rice harvest season came, and candles were lit for light. Ramon’s hospitality was incredible. We ended up running out of pesos and all we had was dollars, he ended up letting us stay another night and told us to just Western Union the money to him. The cooking was amazing, my top favorites were his Adobo and the chicken tinola. This visit also got us hooked on their local coffee, lemongrass tea straight from their garden, and rice wine made by his neighbor. Read more about everyone’s great experience staying with Ramon here on Trip Advisor

The jeepney drove us most of the way up through the windy dirt roads to the saddle point, where we then hiked down a little over an hour to reach the village.

A beautiful little girl from Bangaan with a basket full of rice.

The local kids asking me for money to buy candy. Next time I come I’ll bring some treats (pasalubong) to hand out to the locals.

The locals chewed “moma” which consisted of betel nut, leaves from an ivy that grew on palm trees, limestone paste, and tobacco. (We were pretty familiar with this red spit, which they also chewed in Palau)

Night by candlelight inside our hut

This photo was taken by Ramon inside the hut he was born in. We wore native Ifugao tribal wear which are still weaved to this day by the women in the village. We met a lady named Christina who’s mother spends her days weaving these garments. They had such beautiful handiwork from blankets to clothing, but we ended up with a belt and headpiece instead, much lighter to pack!

This was Ramon– Please meet him if you can! Whether you’re staying here or just passing through!

This was a local named Ubert, he also got drunk and tried to kiss me while Aaron was taking a photo of the two of us– haha!

In my hiking boots and walking stick, I still had to be very cautious with my footing along the rice terraces’ narrow ledges. The locals have got it down, just skipping along with heavy cargo (bamboo) and barefooted!

What to expect from Banaue to Batad:

From Banaue to Batad was about a 45 minute jeep ride. Try to find other passengers and tourists to share a jeep with, that way you can split the cost of 2,000 pesos. (We didn’t find anyone and ended up talking the driver down to 1,000P) They also offer tricycle rides up to Batad- but many parts of the road required a 4-wheel jeep specially during the rainy season. The walk from the junction took about an hour depending on your pace. We walked slowly, took lots of pictures, and wandered around. There were guides up at the top offering to guide you for about 800-1200 pesos. We were able to find it without a guide by just following the trail, but hiring a guide really helps the community since its one of their main sources of income. Lots and lots of stairs, mainly all downhill on your way to Batad. If you prefer not to walk the stairs, there’s also an option to take the “long way” which wasn’t much longer.

Once in Batad:

Once you arrive in Batad you will be required to sign in and pay a cultural fee. Here you will be greeted by locals for hire as guides and masseuses. Hikes around Batad was incredible. Many of it is through rice terraces, some ledges felt like a balancing act with a narrow 10 inch leeway into a steep fall. Hiking to the waterfall required passing through the main village and many many more stairs up and down to a massively strong waterfall between the valleys. A bit chilly but refreshing after a hike. After we came back the locals didn’t hold back telling us death stories of those who lost to the waterfall. Apparently, swimming right under a waterfall has a strong undercurrent that only strong swimmers can get out of.

What to expect from the people:

Very friendly, and don’t really like to get their pictures taken. Just as common courtesy be sure to ask first, many times they will agree if you give them some pesos. The photo above with Aaron and the older short man, he asked for some money in order to buy his tobacco in trade for a photo! haha They all seem to speak English very very well. Everyone I met was trilingual, speaking their native language Ilocano (spelled ILOKANO in Philippines), Tagalog, and English.

Leaving Batad:

We always had to be aware of time before we left for hikes because it gets dark around 6 or 7 and we didn’t want to have to maneuver on narrow ledges in the dark. On our way back to Banaue we decided to go through Bangaan. There a jeep picked us up around 9:00 am. Jeeps don’t run as often in the slow season so be sure to find out the times they stop at each point. We actually hired a guide for this trek named Eric, the nephew of Ramon who we were staying with, and I’m kind of glad we did. Trails weren’t clearly marked, no signs, and lots of maneuvering through rice terraces.We got a late start in the morning so were were rushing through back trails to make it to the bus stop. It took about a 2-3 hour hike and caught it just in time. The jeep was packed and we rode on top–it was quite an adventurous ride. Ride on the top of the jeepney if you can, miraculous views the whole way. The jeep was so heavy and hit so many potholes that the jeep actually ended up with a flat tire which sent me and Aaron trekking the rest of the was to Batad on foot.

Experiencing the Supermoon at Mt. Zion Utah

Posted by charmie on June 30, 2013

I’ve always heard amazing things about Utah’s landscape, and it took seeing it with my own eyes to wonder why it took us so long to get here. Daylight was occupied with beautiful day hikes and Aaron long-boarding down Mt. Zion’s red roads. When the night fell we camped at Mount Zion right off of catskills campground overlooking canyon lands as far as your eye can see. We were atop of a canyon, so high we felt that we were in the clouds. Everywhere you turned, your peripheral vision led you right back into the vast sky that surrounded you. We happened to spend the night here during the full moon “SuperMoon” and there was never a dark moment in the night, it glowed so brightly it felt like ambient daylight. The moon reflected off the white rock in which we laid in. Backs on our blankets and just in awe of what was before us. We never slept this night, afraid we would miss something. I wanted to hang on to this night as long as it would let me. I knew a SuperMoon wouldn’t arrive for another few months or so, and who knows where in my life I would be. But tonight, I was here, atop of Mount Zion, a land that fosters magic and here I was in rapture of it. When the only constant is change, we knew this night was what we make of it. So we put out energies into the wee hours to daybreak. We even lit sparklers- it felt like a party and the moon was our disco ball. To honor the Supermoon’s presence me and Aaron created totem poles with our headlights creating a lunar alignment. How easy would it be I thought, to get lost here, to fall under the spell of this canyon land.

Tesuque Pueblo Flea Market, Santa Fe

Posted by charmie on June 27, 2013

We’re a month into our US road trip and each day keeps getting better than the next. To be able to drive through various landscapes, camp, hike, photograph and eat our way all the way out west has been the most incredible experience! Little by little we’ll stop into local coffee shops for wi-fi to answer emails, but most of our trip has been spent unplugged and off the grid. One thing I’ve enjoyed the most about this trip is the fact that we’ve had a very flexible itinerary. We slept in, mostly rode on highways, took exits to purposely get off track and discover ghost towns, 4-wheel trails, and local flea markets! One in particular is the Tesuque Pueblo Flea Market in Santa Fe. It was on Indian land and cameras were not allowed, but I happened to take a few snapshots through my iphone. (sorry I couldn’t help it!) Needless to say, my mind was blown. What an amazing encounter! Each booth was filled with artisan pieces such as; textiles, woven baskets, ethnic beads, intricate carvings, brightly patterned bags along with rocks and minerals of all sorts. Speaking with the vendors, they all had an interesting story about how they curated all the pieces for their booth. Many of them live overseas part time, and travel to acquire their collection. Not to shabby right? I told Aaron that’s what I want to be when I grow up! 😉 In a few days, we’re off to the Philippines. Bittersweet to leave, but we’re terribly excited.

Palo Duro Cayon

Posted by charmie on June 27, 2013

I will always remember running into a rattlesnake crossing our paths, and just a few minutes later a tarantula the size of my hand scurried past us. Wow I thought, this land was rugged and it was beautiful! Day hikes and siestas filled our daylight hours, and as always the grand finale of the star lights fill our nights.

Coral Sand Dunes of Utah

Posted by charmie on June 21, 2013

Bright coral hued sands sparkled under the Utah sunlight. Sands so fine and incredibly soft that sinks like snow with every step. We’ve always been enchanted by the desert and this was an adult sandbox!

Photos caught through film

Overlooking Lake Powell Arizona

Posted by charmie on June 21, 2013

Best parts of the trips are always the spontaneous stops that you come across along the ride. We had a very flexible schedule on the road, so we were lucky enough to stand in awe of many places that we otherwise would not have know to include in our itinerary. One of them was overlooking Lake Powell as the moon appeared brightly against the water color sky of Arizona.